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tours

Selçuk and a Mediterranean Blue Cruise

by Keith on October 23, 2009 · 0 comments

After the urban sophistication of Istanbul Amy and I decided we needed to see some very old ruins and to maybe relax a bit.  The town of Selçuk, which is near the ruins of Ephesus and other ancient cities did not disappoint with amazing ruins.  The Mediterranean cruise we took with V-Go from Fethiye to Demre was indeed very relaxing.

After a very nice ride in business class on a ferry from Istanbul to Bandirma, then quite a comfortable bus from there to Izmir and a couple of hours in a small mini-bus, we finally arrived in Selçuk.   The mini-bus was an interesting ride.  While the bigger longer haul passenger buses in Turkey are comfortable, affordable and quick, the mini-buses that you take to smaller towns and for trips of shorter distances can be somewhat cramped, and the drivers seem to often stop to pickup passengers on the side of the road, including school kids in the afternoon, that are headed in the same general direction.  The emphasis is on general, because after dropping someone off the bus would often u-turn to then head back 5 minutes in the direction we had just come from.

Once we arrived to Selçuk we checked into our hostel, Urkmez Hotel.  The owner Juju is quite the affable host and we enjoyed our stay there.  After quickly showering to refresh from a long travel day we headed up to the rooftop terrace for a very reasonably priced Efes beer where we meet a great couple from Seattle who clued us in that we should try and visit Ephesus either early or late in the day, as the cruise ships that dock in the nearby city of Kuşadası send thousands of tourists to Ephesus from 10:30am-4:00pm.  So we hit up some of the other sites near Selçuk in the morning, including the 6th century basilica of St. John the Apostle, which, some claim, is built on the site of the Apostle’s tomb.
St John's 2

This picture is from a tunnel behind the alter, where an Orthodox Priest was performing a mass.
St. John's

LibraryAt Theaterabout 3:30 we headed up the hill to the ruins of Ephesus.  Ephesus was one of the twelve cities of the Ionian League during the Classical Greek period. There are two main features: the 44,000 seating capacity theater and the Library of Celsus.  Also, true to the advice from the previous day, while there were quite a few tourists at 3:30, by 4pm we practically had the place to ourselves, which was excellent as that was when the light was much better for photographs.

When we were not looking at ancient ruins there is a good chance you could find us at Ejder, an excellent and extremely affordable restaurant just around the corner from our hotel.  In fact we were so impressed the first night with the quality of the food as well as the low prices we went back every night.
Ejder

Fish MarketLeaving Selçuk we headed down the coast to Fethiye for our 4 day, 3 night cruise.  We arrived in Fethiye the night before and met Eugene, a fellow traveler from the States.  We decided that the three of us would walk down to the fish market near the harbor in Fethiye.  The fish was exceedingly fresh and cheap.  Amy and I bought a yellow fin tuna to share for 12TL ($8).  The best part of the fish market are all of the restaurants that surround it.  They all have the same deal, for 5TL ($3.40) they cook your fresh fish any way you like, as well as providing salad, potato and bread with your fish.  It was a delicious meal shared with our new friend Eugene.

The next morning we boarded our boat, Summer Love, for 4 days of relaxation.
Summer Love

There is not a whole lot to say about the cruise. It consisted of lots of lounging on the deck reading and napping, taking a dip in the blue and crystal clear Mediterranean when you got too warm, and eating the amazing fresh and delicious food prepared by the crew three times a day.   The one stop we had that was of interest was a castle in Kekova, near the Sunken City.  We hiked up to see it and the view of the bay with Matt and Aisha, a couple from Perth, Australia that is also doing an extended trip around the world.
View from Castle

After disembarking the Summer Love in Demre we took a 2.5 hour minibus ride to Antalya where we were meeting Amy’s Aunt Patti and Uncle Gary for dinner, as they were also in Turkey on vacation.  More about that another time.

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Welcome to Istanbul

by Amy on October 21, 2009 · 3 comments

After a long but uneventful and rather comfortable flight (thank you Phyl at the United Airlines check-in counter for the free upgrade to economy plus – Keith’s legs are still thanking you for the extra 5 inches of legroom!) we arrived at the Side Hotel in Istanbul.

IMG_0374

It was a beautiful afternoon, so after settling in we set out to explore our new neighborhood, Sultanahmet, and get our bearings on the city.  The next day we fully embraced our inner tourists and went to Topkapi Palace, the Grand Bazaar, the Spice Bazaar and the Galata Bridge.

Topkapi Palace was home to the Ottoman sultans until the 19th century and is a massive complex of buildings, chambers and gardens.

topkapi

bos overlook

View of Bosphorus from Topkapi

I particularly enjoyed the Treasury, which houses an impressive collection of sparkly jewels – as my grandmother would say, these pieces were definitely “significant.”  Both of us also really enjoyed the gardens in the fourth courtyard, which overlooks the Bosphorus. We sprung for the audio tour guide, but definitely do not recommend it.  The guide was mediocre at best and pretty much consisted of someone reading the same descriptions which are posted (in English) on the various parts of the Palace and which are themselves no more than titles and dates.  If your budget allows, a live tour guide is the best way to really understand what it is you’re looking at.

grand bazaar

We found the Grand Bazaar to be a bit overwhelming and not all that interesting since we were not really looking to buy anything that we’d have to either carry with us for the rest of the year or ship home.  It’s also much easier to say no thank you to the thousands of carpet sellers when you are living out of a backpack and your storage unit back home doesn’t need stylish flooring.

We did, however, fall in love with the Spice Bazaar, where the goods for sale are of the edible variety and the sights, smells and tastes are enchanting.
spice

This Obama endorsement was also quite entertaining and effective enough for us to stop and check out what this vendor had on offer.
Obama

After sampling some of the best baklava ever,
Baklava

we walked across the Galata Bridge to watch the sunset.  A perfect ending to a fabulous day.
Sunset

IMG_0364Taking a short break from IMG_0365the well-worn tourist path, we spent the next day walking around Istiklal Caddessi, wading through the crowds in Taksim Square and climbing up and down the hills in the Beyoglu neighborhood across the Golden Horn.  After such an intense work out, we treated ourselves to a fantastic dinner at Cezayir.   While the Lonely Planet Istanbul City Guide lists Cezayir as a moderately priced restaurant, it was definitely at the higher end of our dining budget but totally worth it.

We spent a beautiful Saturday cruising the Bosphorus on the Public Bosphorus Excursion Ferry.  For 20 Turkish Lira each, we spent the day cruising along the shore and taking in the sights of the Dolmabahce Palace and the Bosphorus Bridge and had a lovely seafood lunch in Anadolu Kavagi.

Cruise Collage

Dinner was at the Istanbul Restaurant & Café & Lounge which had delicious food at very reasonable prices.  It was so good that we ending up having dinner there two nights in a row.

On our last day touring Istanbul, we went to the Aya Sofia, the Basilica Cistern and the Blue Mosque.  All three are on the list of must-see sites in Istanbul.  See our pictures of all them in a previous post here.  Our hotel was very close to the Blue Mosque, so we were able to hear the beautiful call to prayer.

During previous travels, Keith and I have tended to be disappointed when touring the bigger cities and have found that we enjoy the smaller towns and countryside more.  Istanbul is a big exception – we both loved this beautiful city.  With fantastic weather, beautiful sites, colorful markets and great food, Istanbul was an amazing place to start our adventure.

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