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ruins

The train station platform in Giza is packed, filthy and loud as we wait for our overnight train to Aswan, which is running late.  Old, Overnight Traindecrepit trains pull into the station, one after another, and the kid sent with us by the hostel to ensure we get onto the right train looks nervous, unsure which is the right train to put us on.  A train pulls in, and many of the other obvious tourists on the platform board.  Is this our train?  The kid looks unsure.  We stand on the platform as the train pulls away.  What exactly have we gotten ourselves into?

About an hour later, we are escorted onto a train.  Much to my relief, the sleeping cabin is private and clean, with warm blankets and soft pillows.  We both sleep well on the thirteen-hour ride south.

The obelisk, after being mostly carved, cracked and was left in the granite quarryOur tour guide in Aswan - looks a little like a young Obama, no?Aswan is literally a breath of fresh air after spending several days in Cairo.  It’s hot, but the air is clear and the traffic is light.  After a quick lunch and settling into our hotel room, we meet up with our tour guide to explore the sites, including the Unfinished Obelisk, the High Dam (which was built to control the flooding of the Nile River, provide hydroelectric power and resulted in the creation ofLake Nassar), and the beautiful Philae Temple.

Philae Temple

Boat Captain to Philae

Carvings Inside Philae

Sunset at Philae

The next morning we arose at 3am to meet up with the convoy to Abu Simbel, just north of the Sudanese border.  All traffic to Abu Simbel is required to travel in one of two convoys and stop at multiple checkpoints along the way.  After a nearly four-hour ride, we arrived at the magnificent temples of Abu Simbel.  As you can see, all of our pictures are of the exteriors of the temples.  Abu SimbelLike many of the sites in Egypt, photographs of the beautiful carved and painted interiors of the temples is forbidden.

In Luxor, we explored the Mummification Museum, a small but interesting museum dedicated to all things mummy.   A little creepy, but at the same time fascinating. In the late afternoon we meet up with our guide for a tour of the Karnak Temple, catching the sunset before heading to the Luxor Temple, which is lit up after dark.

Luxor Temple DetailLuxor TempleInside Karnak temple

The next day our guide takes us to the West Bank of Luxor to tour the Valley of the Queens, the Valley of the Kings, Deir el- Bahri (the Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut), and the Colossi of Memnon.  Again, photography is forbidden inside the amazing tombs, so you’ll have to use you imagination to see the amazing paintings and carvings that line the walls.Better Hat Temple

It was a hectic four days touring Aswan and Luxor, but the sites were incredible and with the help of a great guide we learned more about ancient Egypt that we could have possible imagined.  Next up, recovering from so much site seeing on the beaches of Dahab.

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Selçuk and a Mediterranean Blue Cruise

by Keith on October 23, 2009 · 0 comments

After the urban sophistication of Istanbul Amy and I decided we needed to see some very old ruins and to maybe relax a bit.  The town of Selçuk, which is near the ruins of Ephesus and other ancient cities did not disappoint with amazing ruins.  The Mediterranean cruise we took with V-Go from Fethiye to Demre was indeed very relaxing.

After a very nice ride in business class on a ferry from Istanbul to Bandirma, then quite a comfortable bus from there to Izmir and a couple of hours in a small mini-bus, we finally arrived in Selçuk.   The mini-bus was an interesting ride.  While the bigger longer haul passenger buses in Turkey are comfortable, affordable and quick, the mini-buses that you take to smaller towns and for trips of shorter distances can be somewhat cramped, and the drivers seem to often stop to pickup passengers on the side of the road, including school kids in the afternoon, that are headed in the same general direction.  The emphasis is on general, because after dropping someone off the bus would often u-turn to then head back 5 minutes in the direction we had just come from.

Once we arrived to Selçuk we checked into our hostel, Urkmez Hotel.  The owner Juju is quite the affable host and we enjoyed our stay there.  After quickly showering to refresh from a long travel day we headed up to the rooftop terrace for a very reasonably priced Efes beer where we meet a great couple from Seattle who clued us in that we should try and visit Ephesus either early or late in the day, as the cruise ships that dock in the nearby city of Kuşadası send thousands of tourists to Ephesus from 10:30am-4:00pm.  So we hit up some of the other sites near Selçuk in the morning, including the 6th century basilica of St. John the Apostle, which, some claim, is built on the site of the Apostle’s tomb.
St John's 2

This picture is from a tunnel behind the alter, where an Orthodox Priest was performing a mass.
St. John's

LibraryAt Theaterabout 3:30 we headed up the hill to the ruins of Ephesus.  Ephesus was one of the twelve cities of the Ionian League during the Classical Greek period. There are two main features: the 44,000 seating capacity theater and the Library of Celsus.  Also, true to the advice from the previous day, while there were quite a few tourists at 3:30, by 4pm we practically had the place to ourselves, which was excellent as that was when the light was much better for photographs.

When we were not looking at ancient ruins there is a good chance you could find us at Ejder, an excellent and extremely affordable restaurant just around the corner from our hotel.  In fact we were so impressed the first night with the quality of the food as well as the low prices we went back every night.
Ejder

Fish MarketLeaving Selçuk we headed down the coast to Fethiye for our 4 day, 3 night cruise.  We arrived in Fethiye the night before and met Eugene, a fellow traveler from the States.  We decided that the three of us would walk down to the fish market near the harbor in Fethiye.  The fish was exceedingly fresh and cheap.  Amy and I bought a yellow fin tuna to share for 12TL ($8).  The best part of the fish market are all of the restaurants that surround it.  They all have the same deal, for 5TL ($3.40) they cook your fresh fish any way you like, as well as providing salad, potato and bread with your fish.  It was a delicious meal shared with our new friend Eugene.

The next morning we boarded our boat, Summer Love, for 4 days of relaxation.
Summer Love

There is not a whole lot to say about the cruise. It consisted of lots of lounging on the deck reading and napping, taking a dip in the blue and crystal clear Mediterranean when you got too warm, and eating the amazing fresh and delicious food prepared by the crew three times a day.   The one stop we had that was of interest was a castle in Kekova, near the Sunken City.  We hiked up to see it and the view of the bay with Matt and Aisha, a couple from Perth, Australia that is also doing an extended trip around the world.
View from Castle

After disembarking the Summer Love in Demre we took a 2.5 hour minibus ride to Antalya where we were meeting Amy’s Aunt Patti and Uncle Gary for dinner, as they were also in Turkey on vacation.  More about that another time.

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