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Istanbul

The Food of Turkey

by Keith on November 11, 2009 · 6 comments

This post is all about the food of Turkey.  In some ways eating has been the biggest change for Amy and I on the trip so far.  At home we would go out to eat maybe once or twice a week.  For the last month we have eaten out for nearly every meal, and done no real cooking.  The closest we have come to cooking is mixing cereal and yogurt in our room for breakfast. I know you all have been wondering about the cuisine and variety of foods that Amy and I have been sampling for the last month so I will detail the gastronomic delights we enjoyed while in Turkey below.

Cezayir InsideIf there were two words to summarize the cuisine of Turkey it would have to be grilled meat.  There is very little fault I can find with a country that likes to grill meat on skewers, over open flames or even cook it in a pot for 6 hours.   In Istanbul the best food we had was at Cezayir near Taksim Square the center of modern Istanbul.  The ambiance was excellent, as seating was outside in a beautiful courtyard Cezayir Steakpatio under the stars.  While we were some of the first people to arrive at 7pm, the restaurant did fill up by 8:30.  Amy had pasta with wild mushrooms and green onion; my dish was strips of grilled filet mignon over a base of Greek-style yogurt and grilled bread.  The filet was excellent, very tender, and the bread and yogurt base was creamy with a slightly smoky flavor from being grilled.  The long grilled green pepper on the plate is a very common side in Turkey and was quite sweet.

All of our lodging in Turkey included a traditional Turkish breakfast.  And while there was some variety it generally included a hard-boiled egg, bread, jam, butter, olives, tomatoes and feta cheese.  In short, delicious and heart healthy!  The picture below is the buffet style breakfast that we had while staying at the White Garden Pension in Antalya.  Served from 8-10 every morning, breakfast also included Turkish tea or Nescafe coffee.  Generally the tea was our choice of caffeinated beverage.

Breakfast Buffet

Lamb KebapNo post of Turkish food would be complete without mention of the kabob, known in Turkey as the kebap.  Kebaps are by far the most prevalent form of grilled meat in Turkey.  These two chicken and lamb kebaps are from a restaurant in the old city of Antalya.  Kebaps in Turkey come in three basic incarnations: chicken, lamb and kafta, which is a spicy meatball.  Chicken KebapAll are quite good and are a good budget choice for lunch or an affordable dinner.  One quick note on the fresh vegetables and salad pictured here.  We had received advice to not eat fresh vegetables from our travel doctor at Penn Travel Medicine.  His rule was if you couldn’t cook it, peel it, or boil it – forget it.  In practice we found that all of the fresh vegetables in Turkey were quite safe and delicious.  I think if you use some common sense and only eat fresh vegetables or salads at restaurants that are clean and crowded you will be just fine in Turkey.

Turkish NachosOne surprisingly delicious non-Turkish meal was the Turkish nachos at Fat Boys Café and Bar.  Amy and I stopped in there one night after a long day of hiking through the valleys around Goreme.  On a whim I decided that I would order the nachos.  My expectations were pretty low but when the plate below appeared at the table I was pleasantly surprised.   The chips were spicy and not dissimilar from Doritos, but the toppings are what made the dish.  Topped with beans, tomatoes, green onion, cheese and a Bulgarian-style yogurt, the whole dish was broiled to bubbly goodness.  I would recommend them to anyone spending time in Goreme and looking for a break from traditional Turkish food.

I will end this post on one of the best meals I had in Turkey.  In Cappadocia they have a special kebap, the Desti Kebap.  This is a special dish that is cooked in a clay pot for 6 hours.  You have to order it ahead of time and when you arrive they bring it to your table and in a bit of a table-side show use a hammer to crack open your dinner.

Desti Kebap Opening

Desti Kebap - ChickenDesti Kebap - MeatAmy had a chicken and I had a meat desti kebap.  Meat generally means lamb in Turkey, but this may have been a mixture of lamb and beef.  Either way it was delicious, extremely flavorful and moist.

The accompaniment of yogurt with Turkish spices on top was not only beautiful but a perfect dip for the fresh bread and a little of the pickled pink cabbage.Yogurt

I found the food in Turkey to be quite good.  My one complaint is that there is somewhat of a limited range of flavors.  Breaking up traditional Turkish meals with a Turkish influenced western dish like the nachos easily solves the flavor monotony.    Let’s hear your thoughts, what else do you want to know about food?  For those that have been to Turkey, what’s your favorite Turkish food?

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Welcome to Istanbul

by Amy on October 21, 2009 · 3 comments

After a long but uneventful and rather comfortable flight (thank you Phyl at the United Airlines check-in counter for the free upgrade to economy plus – Keith’s legs are still thanking you for the extra 5 inches of legroom!) we arrived at the Side Hotel in Istanbul.

IMG_0374

It was a beautiful afternoon, so after settling in we set out to explore our new neighborhood, Sultanahmet, and get our bearings on the city.  The next day we fully embraced our inner tourists and went to Topkapi Palace, the Grand Bazaar, the Spice Bazaar and the Galata Bridge.

Topkapi Palace was home to the Ottoman sultans until the 19th century and is a massive complex of buildings, chambers and gardens.

topkapi

bos overlook

View of Bosphorus from Topkapi

I particularly enjoyed the Treasury, which houses an impressive collection of sparkly jewels – as my grandmother would say, these pieces were definitely “significant.”  Both of us also really enjoyed the gardens in the fourth courtyard, which overlooks the Bosphorus. We sprung for the audio tour guide, but definitely do not recommend it.  The guide was mediocre at best and pretty much consisted of someone reading the same descriptions which are posted (in English) on the various parts of the Palace and which are themselves no more than titles and dates.  If your budget allows, a live tour guide is the best way to really understand what it is you’re looking at.

grand bazaar

We found the Grand Bazaar to be a bit overwhelming and not all that interesting since we were not really looking to buy anything that we’d have to either carry with us for the rest of the year or ship home.  It’s also much easier to say no thank you to the thousands of carpet sellers when you are living out of a backpack and your storage unit back home doesn’t need stylish flooring.

We did, however, fall in love with the Spice Bazaar, where the goods for sale are of the edible variety and the sights, smells and tastes are enchanting.
spice

This Obama endorsement was also quite entertaining and effective enough for us to stop and check out what this vendor had on offer.
Obama

After sampling some of the best baklava ever,
Baklava

we walked across the Galata Bridge to watch the sunset.  A perfect ending to a fabulous day.
Sunset

IMG_0364Taking a short break from IMG_0365the well-worn tourist path, we spent the next day walking around Istiklal Caddessi, wading through the crowds in Taksim Square and climbing up and down the hills in the Beyoglu neighborhood across the Golden Horn.  After such an intense work out, we treated ourselves to a fantastic dinner at Cezayir.   While the Lonely Planet Istanbul City Guide lists Cezayir as a moderately priced restaurant, it was definitely at the higher end of our dining budget but totally worth it.

We spent a beautiful Saturday cruising the Bosphorus on the Public Bosphorus Excursion Ferry.  For 20 Turkish Lira each, we spent the day cruising along the shore and taking in the sights of the Dolmabahce Palace and the Bosphorus Bridge and had a lovely seafood lunch in Anadolu Kavagi.

Cruise Collage

Dinner was at the Istanbul Restaurant & Café & Lounge which had delicious food at very reasonable prices.  It was so good that we ending up having dinner there two nights in a row.

On our last day touring Istanbul, we went to the Aya Sofia, the Basilica Cistern and the Blue Mosque.  All three are on the list of must-see sites in Istanbul.  See our pictures of all them in a previous post here.  Our hotel was very close to the Blue Mosque, so we were able to hear the beautiful call to prayer.

During previous travels, Keith and I have tended to be disappointed when touring the bigger cities and have found that we enjoy the smaller towns and countryside more.  Istanbul is a big exception – we both loved this beautiful city.  With fantastic weather, beautiful sites, colorful markets and great food, Istanbul was an amazing place to start our adventure.

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Istanbul Pictures

by Keith on October 12, 2009 · 7 comments

So here is the first album of pictures from Istanbul, Turkey.  You can view the slide show below, or click here to go to the pretty pictures page to get the link to the Picasa album. Hope you enjoy them.  We are off early tomorrow to Selcuk to see the ruins at Ephesus.  We will travel first by fast ferry, then train and finally by bus.  Rumor has it there is internet on the ferry, but I am highly suspicious.

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