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Cappadocia

The Food of Turkey

by Keith on November 11, 2009 · 6 comments

This post is all about the food of Turkey.  In some ways eating has been the biggest change for Amy and I on the trip so far.  At home we would go out to eat maybe once or twice a week.  For the last month we have eaten out for nearly every meal, and done no real cooking.  The closest we have come to cooking is mixing cereal and yogurt in our room for breakfast. I know you all have been wondering about the cuisine and variety of foods that Amy and I have been sampling for the last month so I will detail the gastronomic delights we enjoyed while in Turkey below.

Cezayir InsideIf there were two words to summarize the cuisine of Turkey it would have to be grilled meat.  There is very little fault I can find with a country that likes to grill meat on skewers, over open flames or even cook it in a pot for 6 hours.   In Istanbul the best food we had was at Cezayir near Taksim Square the center of modern Istanbul.  The ambiance was excellent, as seating was outside in a beautiful courtyard Cezayir Steakpatio under the stars.  While we were some of the first people to arrive at 7pm, the restaurant did fill up by 8:30.  Amy had pasta with wild mushrooms and green onion; my dish was strips of grilled filet mignon over a base of Greek-style yogurt and grilled bread.  The filet was excellent, very tender, and the bread and yogurt base was creamy with a slightly smoky flavor from being grilled.  The long grilled green pepper on the plate is a very common side in Turkey and was quite sweet.

All of our lodging in Turkey included a traditional Turkish breakfast.  And while there was some variety it generally included a hard-boiled egg, bread, jam, butter, olives, tomatoes and feta cheese.  In short, delicious and heart healthy!  The picture below is the buffet style breakfast that we had while staying at the White Garden Pension in Antalya.  Served from 8-10 every morning, breakfast also included Turkish tea or Nescafe coffee.  Generally the tea was our choice of caffeinated beverage.

Breakfast Buffet

Lamb KebapNo post of Turkish food would be complete without mention of the kabob, known in Turkey as the kebap.  Kebaps are by far the most prevalent form of grilled meat in Turkey.  These two chicken and lamb kebaps are from a restaurant in the old city of Antalya.  Kebaps in Turkey come in three basic incarnations: chicken, lamb and kafta, which is a spicy meatball.  Chicken KebapAll are quite good and are a good budget choice for lunch or an affordable dinner.  One quick note on the fresh vegetables and salad pictured here.  We had received advice to not eat fresh vegetables from our travel doctor at Penn Travel Medicine.  His rule was if you couldn’t cook it, peel it, or boil it – forget it.  In practice we found that all of the fresh vegetables in Turkey were quite safe and delicious.  I think if you use some common sense and only eat fresh vegetables or salads at restaurants that are clean and crowded you will be just fine in Turkey.

Turkish NachosOne surprisingly delicious non-Turkish meal was the Turkish nachos at Fat Boys Café and Bar.  Amy and I stopped in there one night after a long day of hiking through the valleys around Goreme.  On a whim I decided that I would order the nachos.  My expectations were pretty low but when the plate below appeared at the table I was pleasantly surprised.   The chips were spicy and not dissimilar from Doritos, but the toppings are what made the dish.  Topped with beans, tomatoes, green onion, cheese and a Bulgarian-style yogurt, the whole dish was broiled to bubbly goodness.  I would recommend them to anyone spending time in Goreme and looking for a break from traditional Turkish food.

I will end this post on one of the best meals I had in Turkey.  In Cappadocia they have a special kebap, the Desti Kebap.  This is a special dish that is cooked in a clay pot for 6 hours.  You have to order it ahead of time and when you arrive they bring it to your table and in a bit of a table-side show use a hammer to crack open your dinner.

Desti Kebap Opening

Desti Kebap - ChickenDesti Kebap - MeatAmy had a chicken and I had a meat desti kebap.  Meat generally means lamb in Turkey, but this may have been a mixture of lamb and beef.  Either way it was delicious, extremely flavorful and moist.

The accompaniment of yogurt with Turkish spices on top was not only beautiful but a perfect dip for the fresh bread and a little of the pickled pink cabbage.Yogurt

I found the food in Turkey to be quite good.  My one complaint is that there is somewhat of a limited range of flavors.  Breaking up traditional Turkish meals with a Turkish influenced western dish like the nachos easily solves the flavor monotony.    Let’s hear your thoughts, what else do you want to know about food?  For those that have been to Turkey, what’s your favorite Turkish food?

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Fairy Chimneys and Panoramas

by Amy on November 8, 2009 · 5 comments

The Cappadocia region of Turkey was our favorite part of the 20 days we had in the country.  Hiking through breathtaking canyons, exploring an underground city and climbing to a mountaintop monastery were definitely highlights.  We arrived in Goreme after an overnight bus from Antalya, where we had a lovely visit with Uncle Gary and Aunt Patti.  We then spent our first day in Cappadocia exploring the Goreme Open Air Museum.  The Museum contains many churches carved into the stone, some featuring beautiful frescos, and caves that were once used as kitchens and living spaces.

Fresco in a church at the Goreme Open Air Museum

After the Museum, we passed on a camel ride and instead explored the Kilcar Valley and hiked to fantastic viewpoints for the Red and Rose Valleys.

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Rose Valley

Rose Valley

The next morning we arose early for an amazing sunrise hot air balloon ride over the valleys and fairy chimneys of Cappadocia.  You can check out our photographs here.  Luckily our balloon basket consisted mostly of tourists from Hong Kong and Keith was able to take photographs is all directions over their heads.  They were also an excitable bunch, cheering every time the pilot took the balloon low over the rocks or deep into the valleys (so low that Keith could reach out and pick a leaf off a tree top).  While a bit on the pricey side, the balloon ride was an incredible way to celebrate our first wedding anniversary.  Wonder how we’ll top it next year…

We did one day with a tour group, on what is know as the “Green Tour.”  Our hostel, Rock Valley (which was a great value with fabulous breakfast, a helpful manager and which we highly recommend to fellow budget travelers) arranged the tour which included a panoramic view of Goreme,

Goreme Pan Correct Size

The Fairy Chimneys of Goreme

a tour of the largest underground city at Derinkuyu, a hike through part of the Ihlara Valley, and a climb up to the monastery carved into the mountain 150 meters up near Belisima.

Amy Underground

The Advantage of Being Short - Plenty of Room

The underground city was used as a hiding place for many of the residents when the city was under attack and contains 8 levels down to about 85 meters below the surface.  The city had wine presses, food storage places, churches, ventilation shafts and even what is believed to be a religious classroom.   It also had small passages to slow down the enemy (who were taller) and stone doorways to block any attacks.  As we made our way up and down the narrow and steep passageways and staircases, I was grateful for my short stature, which is turning into a real advantage when touring historical ruins (and on long-haul flights in coach).  While most visitors are hunched over or nearly crawling through the spaces, I was lucky to only have to duck here and there.

Our next stop was a hike through part of the Ihlara Valley, which was very different from the valleys around Goreme.  Ihlara ValleyThe Ihlara has a small river running through the middle and is lush with vegetation.  It was incredibly beautiful and we were able to stop and have a delicious lunch on a platform built right over the river.  Ihlara Lunch on RiverUnfortunately, our tour guide was in a rush and practically trail-running through the valley so we didn’t get to stop and take in the scenery as much as we would have liked.  It is also very difficult to get to the Ihlara without being on an organized tour so we didn’t have a chance to spend more time there.

The climb up to the top of monastery was steep and a challenge to my fear of heights, so while Keith explored the nooks and crannies at the top, I stayed far away from the ledges and enjoyed the incredible views from a safe, flat area below the top.

Monestary Pan Correct SizeThe rest of our time in Goreme was spent relaxing, taking hikes (and lots of photos) in the Pigeon and Love Valleys and enjoying picnics along the way.  The hike through Love Valley was one of my favorite hikes.  The valley contains two trails through the middle, one of which is pretty conventional and the other of which takes you through many tunnels.  Amy Love Valley TunnelWe started on the tunnel trail and as the tunnels got increasing smaller and smaller we were both practically crawling along the muddy ground.  It was definitely a more interesting trail, but we finally decided that the mud wasn’t for us and switched trails.  Keith Grapes Love ValleyWe also found lots of fresh fruit vines and trees along the trails, which made for delicious snacking.

After such a wonderful time in Goreme and a fabulous three weeks in Turkey, it was hard to pack up and hit the road again but it was time to move on.  We took another overnight bus back to Istanbul to catch our flight to Cairo and the start of our adventures in Egypt.

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