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Bangkok

Songkran 2010

by Amy on April 27, 2010 · 3 comments

A rainbow of shiny plastic guns erupts, spewing icy-cold water on laughing strangers passing by.  Buckets of water warmed by the sun float out above the crowds, tipped just so to drench from head to toe. Hands covered in talc-paste come at your face, your hair, your sunglasses from every direction.  Within minutes everyone is a wet, pasty mess, and it is impossible not to smile.

Welcome to Songkran, the celebration of the Thai New Year.  Keith and I had been looking forward to our first Songkran since the beginning of our trip planning.  We had heard from other travelers that this was one festival not to be missed and planned the Southeast Asian leg of our trip to ensure that we’d be back in Thailand for the celebration. And let me tell you, it did not disappoint.

Keith and I made our way around the Khao San Road area and within minutes were soaked through to the skin and laughing amidst the arcs of water flying all around us.  When it’s over 100 degrees, being doused with ice water every few minutes is definitely the most comfortable approach to being outside.  We followed the joyful crowds and slowly moved through the center of the celebrations on jam packed Khao San Road.  Never before had we experienced such a carefree mass of humanity, everyone grinning from ear to ear and joining in the goodhearted fun.

The Thai people are famously laid back and peaceful, and we were both struck with the thought that such a public celebration in any city in the United States would easily devolve into a dangerous or even tragic situation.  Yet here, hot and crowded as it was, we were engulfed by smiles and the spirit of fun.

Then we reached the end of Khao San Road.  The crowd thinned out.  The laughter was suddenly muted.  Instead of plastic toy water guns, the shops were lined with bullet holes.  Instead of streams of water and talc, the asphalt was stained with blood.  A makeshift memorial arose in the middle of the street with pictures of the dead, flags and twisted metal debris replacing the colorful buckets and beer cans of the party taking place just meters away.  Just four days earlier, this was the site of a violent clash between the Red Shirt protesters and government troops that left 24 people dead.

The juxtaposition of such a peaceful celebration and such violence was surreal.  How could such sadness have occurred just four days before such joy?  It was a gruesome reminder of how quickly a peaceful crowd can turn dangerous and of the three days we spent mostly holed up in our Bangkok hotel watching the news and trying to rearrange our travel plans.

A few days later we were safely out of Bangkok and watching the headlines of increasing tension, police raids and more violent clashes.  We will try to remember Songkran for the friendly, easygoing people, the beauty of the throngs of humanity letting loose in the world’s biggest and most entertaining public water fight. But I don’t think we’ll forget the shock of suddenly swallowing our joy and being confronted with the reality of the price that those fighting for a political voice have paid.

In other news, Greenbiz.com recently published an article we wrote about a renewable energy company that we met with in Cambodia.  Be sure to check it out here.

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Dinner in Bangkok

by Amy on April 8, 2010 · 8 comments

Because it’s hot in Bangkok.  Because we’re adults.  Because we can.

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Many blogs and guidebooks like to proclaim that having a lot of money isn’t necessary for travel.  Lonely Planet suggests that one can experience Thailand on a budget of merely $11 – $15 per person per day, and there are backpackers whose travel spans the globe over the course of a year for less than $15,000 a piece.  And yes, it really is possible.  But travelers beware – the prices listed in the Lonely Planet guides are often outdated and in reality can be double.  And what the guidebooks and blogs don’t tell you about are the trade offs that you’ll have to make on your journey to travel that cheaply.

The most obvious, of course, is that you’ll forgo fancy hotels and stay in cheap dorm accommodations without air conditioning and with shared bathrooms.  You’ll eat often delicious, sometimes not, street food for all of your meals.  And you’ll avoid expensive taxies by walking and taking local public transportation as many places as possible despite the oppressive heat and humidity.

You may also, like some backpackers we’ve met along the way, spend most of your days hanging around the hostel, wandering around town lost in your own thoughts, or taking photographs from outside the entry gates of the tourist attractions as a way to limit daily expenses.

All of these trade-offs are great if that’s the way you want to travel.  Many backpackers are most interested in experiencing the “vibe” of a new city or country or meeting fellow backpackers while chilling out in a local bar with a cheap beer.

We are not such backpackers, but we’ve made our own set of trade offs on this trip.  We’re not staying at the Westin, but we’re not living in dorm rooms either.  In Thailand, we primarily eat street food from vendors (especially at night markets) because it is so delicious and more affordable than eating in restaurants.  And we do try to walk anywhere we can, despite the sweat dripping from our foreheads.

But for us, if we’ve learned one thing in our past three months of travel, it’s that it’s not just about seeing the sights – we want to learn about what we’re looking at, and come away with more than the three or four sentences written in our guidebooks. And to accomplish this, we’ve found that we have to pay a little more.

Grand Palace. Wat Po. Wat Traimit.  These are just three of the more than 30,000 temples in Thailand. These three, along with nearly countless others can be found in Bangkok.  Each is a unique work of art, craftsmanship and architecture.  Some have steep pitched triangle roofs; others are rounded and layered.  They are amazing to behold, but what do they mean?  It wasn’t until we hired a guide at the Grand Palace that we learned the origins of the different temple shapes. For example, a triangle roof indicates Thai-style, whereas rounded indicates Khmer-style (think Angkor Wat in Cambodia).  We also learned the meanings behind the various colors used in the mosaics that cover the temple walls, with each color representing an element of nature and a fifth representing space.   Our guide even covered the basic tenets of Buddhism as practiced in Thailand, which include: no killing, no lying, no stealing, no adultery and no drinking, although the last one is more of a suggestion than a mandate for most Thais.  At $34.50, the price certainly didn’t fit within a typical backpacker’s budget: entry fees to the Grand Palace are 350 Baht per person ($10.50) and our guide cost an additional 450 Baht ($13.50), but our guide was able to bring the Grand Palace to life for us and provide a foundation for the rest of our sightseeing in Thailand. And if paying for a guide’s insight means we travel for less time or visit fewer countries than we intend to, it’s a trade off we’ve decided we’re more than happy to make.

What trade-offs have you made while traveling?  Were they worth it?

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