From the monthly archives:

December 2009

Many blogs and guidebooks like to proclaim that having a lot of money isn’t necessary for travel.  Lonely Planet suggests that one can experience Thailand on a budget of merely $11 – $15 per person per day, and there are backpackers whose travel spans the globe over the course of a year for less than $15,000 a piece.  And yes, it really is possible.  But travelers beware – the prices listed in the Lonely Planet guides are often outdated and in reality can be double.  And what the guidebooks and blogs don’t tell you about are the trade offs that you’ll have to make on your journey to travel that cheaply.

The most obvious, of course, is that you’ll forgo fancy hotels and stay in cheap dorm accommodations without air conditioning and with shared bathrooms.  You’ll eat often delicious, sometimes not, street food for all of your meals.  And you’ll avoid expensive taxies by walking and taking local public transportation as many places as possible despite the oppressive heat and humidity.

You may also, like some backpackers we’ve met along the way, spend most of your days hanging around the hostel, wandering around town lost in your own thoughts, or taking photographs from outside the entry gates of the tourist attractions as a way to limit daily expenses.

All of these trade-offs are great if that’s the way you want to travel.  Many backpackers are most interested in experiencing the “vibe” of a new city or country or meeting fellow backpackers while chilling out in a local bar with a cheap beer.

We are not such backpackers, but we’ve made our own set of trade offs on this trip.  We’re not staying at the Westin, but we’re not living in dorm rooms either.  In Thailand, we primarily eat street food from vendors (especially at night markets) because it is so delicious and more affordable than eating in restaurants.  And we do try to walk anywhere we can, despite the sweat dripping from our foreheads.

But for us, if we’ve learned one thing in our past three months of travel, it’s that it’s not just about seeing the sights – we want to learn about what we’re looking at, and come away with more than the three or four sentences written in our guidebooks. And to accomplish this, we’ve found that we have to pay a little more.

Grand Palace. Wat Po. Wat Traimit.  These are just three of the more than 30,000 temples in Thailand. These three, along with nearly countless others can be found in Bangkok.  Each is a unique work of art, craftsmanship and architecture.  Some have steep pitched triangle roofs; others are rounded and layered.  They are amazing to behold, but what do they mean?  It wasn’t until we hired a guide at the Grand Palace that we learned the origins of the different temple shapes. For example, a triangle roof indicates Thai-style, whereas rounded indicates Khmer-style (think Angkor Wat in Cambodia).  We also learned the meanings behind the various colors used in the mosaics that cover the temple walls, with each color representing an element of nature and a fifth representing space.   Our guide even covered the basic tenets of Buddhism as practiced in Thailand, which include: no killing, no lying, no stealing, no adultery and no drinking, although the last one is more of a suggestion than a mandate for most Thais.  At $34.50, the price certainly didn’t fit within a typical backpacker’s budget: entry fees to the Grand Palace are 350 Baht per person ($10.50) and our guide cost an additional 450 Baht ($13.50), but our guide was able to bring the Grand Palace to life for us and provide a foundation for the rest of our sightseeing in Thailand. And if paying for a guide’s insight means we travel for less time or visit fewer countries than we intend to, it’s a trade off we’ve decided we’re more than happy to make.

What trade-offs have you made while traveling?  Were they worth it?

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5 Minutes through the Middle East

by Keith on December 29, 2009 · 4 comments

As Amy and I have wrapped up 2 months in the Middle East we put together a 5 minute slide show of some of our favorite pictures and added witty captions.  We posted this to our Facebook Fan page more than a week ago, so if you are on Facebook be sure to become a fan so you get the latest updates.  If you are not on Facebook be sure to sign up for email alerts or the RSS feed in the side bar to the right.

Enjoy the video and let us know what you think.  We will try and do one of these every couple of months, especially if we get a good response to this one…

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Three Travel Secrets: Gear, Lodging and Food

by Keith on December 27, 2009 · 2 comments

My friend Gillian at One Giant Step, challenged us in a blog challenge to reveal our Three Travel Secrets. So, here are three things that Amy and I have learned about travel.

Secret #1) Essential Gear: If we were to provide one recommended piece of gear that might not be so obvious for long-term travel we would say to be sure to bring a dry bag. With its waterproof properties, a dry bag is essential.  Its uses go well beyond keeping important stuff like laptops and cameras dry.  We carry three dry bags with us.  The two smaller ones are great for protecting our laptop and Dry Bag as Laundry machinecamera while traveling between destinations and also work great as beach and day bags.  The larger, 20-liter bag is the most versatile.  Its primary function is as a way to pack all of our liquids in our packs to ensure that if the bottles open they do not create a mess.  One of the best uses for this large dry bag, however, is for laundry.  When traveling for extended periods it is often necessary to do your laundry by hand.  Several attempts at doing laundry in our washroom sinks resulted in clothing that was only sort of clean and in a very messy and wet washroom.  So we took to using the waterproof properties of the dry bag to do laundry.  Simply add dirty clothes, laundry soap, and hot water.  Seal up the bag and shake vigorously for 10-15 minutes.  After a good agitation, drain the dirty water and refill the bag with clean hot water for a rinse “cycle.”  Not only do your clothes get much, much cleaner than hand washing in the sink, your washroom will not be a sopping wet mess.

Secret #2) Lodging Hidden Gem: Lodging in Turkey can be a bit pricey, with many double en-suite rooms costing over $50.  This is especially true in the bigger cities.  One of the best values we found while in Turkey forWhite Garden Pension - large lodging was the White Garden Pansion in Antalya.  At $34 per night for a double en-suite room with A/C this was an affordable and attractive lodging option.  Located in the heart of the old city, it is quite an easy walk to all of the tourist attractions.  The best part may have been the breakfast buffet included in the price of the room.  Most places we stayed in Turkey included a typical Turkish breakfast of a hardboiled egg, bread, processed cheese wedge, olives, cucumber and tomato.  While quite good, the spread at White Garden put all the rest of them to shame.  With real feta and Gruyere cheeses, fresh fruit including pomegranate, and cereal it was a great and filling start to the day.  A final plus for this hotel is that the breakfast is served in a beautiful interior garden courtyard.  White Garden Pansion is a corner of tranquility within the busy streets of the old city.
Contact Information: White Garden Pansion, Kaleici Kilicasian mah., Hesapci gecidi No 9, Antalya, Turkey; +90 242 241 9115, whitegardenantalya@yahoo.com

Secret #3) Best Pad Thai in Bangkok: Street food in Bangkok can be a little overwhelming for many Western Pad Thai Stalltourists.  Many of the stalls and carts Best Pad Thai - Bangkokhave food that is unfamiliar with unique aromas wafting from them.  But do not let that prevent you from partaking in one of the absolute best and most delicious parts of Thailand.  We found a vendor that is a short three-minute walk from the entrance to the Grand Palace, one of the key tourist stops in Bangkok.  Simply head towards the Chang River Taxi Pier when leaving the Grand Palace and before you reach the pier, in the center aisle, in front of the 7-11, you will find two ladies selling Pad Thai and Phad-See-Eew for only 40B ($1.20).  Ordering one each makes for a filling and delicious lunch for two.  Made to order, they were the most beautifully plated and delicious Thai noodle dishes we had while in Bangkok.

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