From the monthly archives:

November 2009

The train station platform in Giza is packed, filthy and loud as we wait for our overnight train to Aswan, which is running late.  Old, Overnight Traindecrepit trains pull into the station, one after another, and the kid sent with us by the hostel to ensure we get onto the right train looks nervous, unsure which is the right train to put us on.  A train pulls in, and many of the other obvious tourists on the platform board.  Is this our train?  The kid looks unsure.  We stand on the platform as the train pulls away.  What exactly have we gotten ourselves into?

About an hour later, we are escorted onto a train.  Much to my relief, the sleeping cabin is private and clean, with warm blankets and soft pillows.  We both sleep well on the thirteen-hour ride south.

The obelisk, after being mostly carved, cracked and was left in the granite quarryOur tour guide in Aswan - looks a little like a young Obama, no?Aswan is literally a breath of fresh air after spending several days in Cairo.  It’s hot, but the air is clear and the traffic is light.  After a quick lunch and settling into our hotel room, we meet up with our tour guide to explore the sites, including the Unfinished Obelisk, the High Dam (which was built to control the flooding of the Nile River, provide hydroelectric power and resulted in the creation ofLake Nassar), and the beautiful Philae Temple.

Philae Temple

Boat Captain to Philae

Carvings Inside Philae

Sunset at Philae

The next morning we arose at 3am to meet up with the convoy to Abu Simbel, just north of the Sudanese border.  All traffic to Abu Simbel is required to travel in one of two convoys and stop at multiple checkpoints along the way.  After a nearly four-hour ride, we arrived at the magnificent temples of Abu Simbel.  As you can see, all of our pictures are of the exteriors of the temples.  Abu SimbelLike many of the sites in Egypt, photographs of the beautiful carved and painted interiors of the temples is forbidden.

In Luxor, we explored the Mummification Museum, a small but interesting museum dedicated to all things mummy.   A little creepy, but at the same time fascinating. In the late afternoon we meet up with our guide for a tour of the Karnak Temple, catching the sunset before heading to the Luxor Temple, which is lit up after dark.

Luxor Temple DetailLuxor TempleInside Karnak temple

The next day our guide takes us to the West Bank of Luxor to tour the Valley of the Queens, the Valley of the Kings, Deir el- Bahri (the Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut), and the Colossi of Memnon.  Again, photography is forbidden inside the amazing tombs, so you’ll have to use you imagination to see the amazing paintings and carvings that line the walls.Better Hat Temple

It was a hectic four days touring Aswan and Luxor, but the sites were incredible and with the help of a great guide we learned more about ancient Egypt that we could have possible imagined.  Next up, recovering from so much site seeing on the beaches of Dahab.

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CEDARE

by Amy on November 18, 2009 · 0 comments

On November 4th Keith and I had the pleasure of meeting with Dr. Nadia Makran Ebeid, the Executive Director of the Center for Amy CedareEnvironment and Development for the Arab Region and Europe (CEDARE), Dr. Ahmed Abdelrehim, Regional Programme Manager of CEDARE’s Knowledge Management Programme, and several other members of CEDARE’s impressive staff who took time out of their busy schedules to discuss ongoing sustainability efforts in the Middle East. CEDARE is focused on the intersection of economics, social development and the environment.  Our meeting covered a wide range of topics, including issues of water quantity and quality, electronic waste, the upcoming Arab Environmental Outlook Report, and CEDARE’s work with the Sekem Initiative. Our meeting with the staff of CEDARE gave us eye-opening insight into the unique cultural and economic challenges that sustainability efforts face in the Middle East.  I think our meeting with CEDARE will really help us with our perspective as we document such efforts in the Middle East and in developing countries around the world.  Keith and I definitely have a lot to think about as we prepare our next case study.

Cedare OfficeSpecial thanks are due to Dr. Abdelrehim for making this meeting possible and for putting us in touch with Dr. Nawal Al-Hosany, the Associate Project Director – Sustainability at Masdar in the United Arab Emirates.  We are looking forward to meeting with Dr. Al-Hosany in early December and learning more about Masdar City, the preeminent example of sustainable development in the region.

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The Trashing of Egypt’s Treasures

by Amy on November 16, 2009 · 3 comments

As Keith already wrote, Cairo is a smoggy, crowded and chaotic city of nearly 20 million people.  Seeing trash on the sidewalks, while unfortunate, is not unexpected. Nor is it all that different from the city sidewalks back home in Philadelphia.  Outside of the Center City District, which imposes a quasi-governmental tax on local businesses and residents to fund a force of workers who keep the sidewalks clean, Philadelphia’s sidewalks are often strewn with litter, including, of all things, chicken bones.  With so many people, high unemployment rates and little money to spare, keeping Downtown Cairo trash-free is clearly not a high priority for the government.  It’s hard to throw stones when home is the quintessential glass house.

Then we arrived at the Great Pyramids of Giza, often at the top of the list of the Seven Wonders of the World.  There, in the sand that surrounds the Pyramids, we spot a crushed plastic water bottle.  Then another.  And another.

Trash along the side of the horse trail to the Pyramids of Giza

Trash along the side of the horse trail to the Pyramids of Giza

Candy bar wrappers, broken glass, cans, papers and plastic debris.  It’s everywhere you look, and it’s a shame.  Here is the primary driver for tourism in Egypt, visited by millions of tourists each year and a huge moneymaker for the Egyptian economy, and it is completely filled with trash.  Not only do we have to crop out other tourists from our photos, but the trash that seems to fill the bottom of nearly every shot.  The other tourist sites around Egypt don’t fare much better when it comes to the proper disposal of litter.  I don’t recall seeing chicken bones on the sidewalk next to the Liberty Bell, do you?

But it gets worse.

Walk along the boardwalk in Dahab, a beach resort town on the Red Sea that is popular with divers and snorkelers.  On any given morning you will see the hotel and shop owners sweeping up the trash along the pathway.

Onto the beach.

And eventually into the sea and the coral reef, the reason that the divers and snorkelers are here in the first place.

There are trasTrash can blown overhcans along the boardwalk and signs asking people not to improperly dispose of their

Notice the "Please No Rubbish Here" sign...

Notice the "Please No Rubbish Here" sign...

garbage.  But the beach seems like an easier place to dispose of the litter that accumulates.  While diving and snorkeling, the beauty of tropical fish and corals is often disrupted with stray plastic bags and broken bottles floating in the clear waters.

I understand that Egypt is a poor country and most people are struggling just to get by, let alone get educated about the environment and do something to preserve it.  The concept of sustainability, rooted in terms of the resources that will be available to future generations, doesn’t work when the struggle is about surviving the day today.

Maybe I am just a product of an over-sanitized American culture that most of the rest of the world can’t afford to duplicate.  Maybe I completely internalized the “Give a Hoot” commercials from my imageschildhood and am programmed to be appalled by litter.  Regardless of the environmental impact, actively destroying the natural assets that are at the core of one’s own livelihood just doesn’t make economic sense. No reefs, no divers.  No divers, no businesses.  No businesses, no jobs.

Am I just a spoiled American experiencing culture shock?  Am I missing something that explains why it is acceptable to litter at the sites of ancient wonders and world-class coral reefs?  What can I do as a tourist to promote values of sustainability in the places I travel?

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