Fairy Chimneys and Panoramas

by Amy on November 8, 2009 · 5 comments

The Cappadocia region of Turkey was our favorite part of the 20 days we had in the country.  Hiking through breathtaking canyons, exploring an underground city and climbing to a mountaintop monastery were definitely highlights.  We arrived in Goreme after an overnight bus from Antalya, where we had a lovely visit with Uncle Gary and Aunt Patti.  We then spent our first day in Cappadocia exploring the Goreme Open Air Museum.  The Museum contains many churches carved into the stone, some featuring beautiful frescos, and caves that were once used as kitchens and living spaces.

Fresco in a church at the Goreme Open Air Museum

After the Museum, we passed on a camel ride and instead explored the Kilcar Valley and hiked to fantastic viewpoints for the Red and Rose Valleys.

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Rose Valley

Rose Valley

The next morning we arose early for an amazing sunrise hot air balloon ride over the valleys and fairy chimneys of Cappadocia.  You can check out our photographs here.  Luckily our balloon basket consisted mostly of tourists from Hong Kong and Keith was able to take photographs is all directions over their heads.  They were also an excitable bunch, cheering every time the pilot took the balloon low over the rocks or deep into the valleys (so low that Keith could reach out and pick a leaf off a tree top).  While a bit on the pricey side, the balloon ride was an incredible way to celebrate our first wedding anniversary.  Wonder how we’ll top it next year…

We did one day with a tour group, on what is know as the “Green Tour.”  Our hostel, Rock Valley (which was a great value with fabulous breakfast, a helpful manager and which we highly recommend to fellow budget travelers) arranged the tour which included a panoramic view of Goreme,

Goreme Pan Correct Size

The Fairy Chimneys of Goreme

a tour of the largest underground city at Derinkuyu, a hike through part of the Ihlara Valley, and a climb up to the monastery carved into the mountain 150 meters up near Belisima.

Amy Underground

The Advantage of Being Short - Plenty of Room

The underground city was used as a hiding place for many of the residents when the city was under attack and contains 8 levels down to about 85 meters below the surface.  The city had wine presses, food storage places, churches, ventilation shafts and even what is believed to be a religious classroom.   It also had small passages to slow down the enemy (who were taller) and stone doorways to block any attacks.  As we made our way up and down the narrow and steep passageways and staircases, I was grateful for my short stature, which is turning into a real advantage when touring historical ruins (and on long-haul flights in coach).  While most visitors are hunched over or nearly crawling through the spaces, I was lucky to only have to duck here and there.

Our next stop was a hike through part of the Ihlara Valley, which was very different from the valleys around Goreme.  Ihlara ValleyThe Ihlara has a small river running through the middle and is lush with vegetation.  It was incredibly beautiful and we were able to stop and have a delicious lunch on a platform built right over the river.  Ihlara Lunch on RiverUnfortunately, our tour guide was in a rush and practically trail-running through the valley so we didn’t get to stop and take in the scenery as much as we would have liked.  It is also very difficult to get to the Ihlara without being on an organized tour so we didn’t have a chance to spend more time there.

The climb up to the top of monastery was steep and a challenge to my fear of heights, so while Keith explored the nooks and crannies at the top, I stayed far away from the ledges and enjoyed the incredible views from a safe, flat area below the top.

Monestary Pan Correct SizeThe rest of our time in Goreme was spent relaxing, taking hikes (and lots of photos) in the Pigeon and Love Valleys and enjoying picnics along the way.  The hike through Love Valley was one of my favorite hikes.  The valley contains two trails through the middle, one of which is pretty conventional and the other of which takes you through many tunnels.  Amy Love Valley TunnelWe started on the tunnel trail and as the tunnels got increasing smaller and smaller we were both practically crawling along the muddy ground.  It was definitely a more interesting trail, but we finally decided that the mud wasn’t for us and switched trails.  Keith Grapes Love ValleyWe also found lots of fresh fruit vines and trees along the trails, which made for delicious snacking.

After such a wonderful time in Goreme and a fabulous three weeks in Turkey, it was hard to pack up and hit the road again but it was time to move on.  We took another overnight bus back to Istanbul to catch our flight to Cairo and the start of our adventures in Egypt.

Related posts:

  1. Pictures from Our Hot Air Balloon Ride
  2. The Food of Turkey
  3. Change of Plans
  4. Sean Penn, Cambodia – Amazing Race Style

{ 5 comments… read them below or add one }

Noam November 8, 2009 at 2:42 PM

Camel rides are over rated. I don’t think you missed anything there :)

Reply

Mary Miller November 8, 2009 at 7:20 PM

Hi Keith and Amy — What a trip it is to follow your adventure. Happy Anniversary by the way, and yes, it will be difficult to top that one! Your posts are inredible — what do you think about the people you are meeting along the way?

With much love,

Mary

Reply

Amy November 11, 2009 at 3:15 AM

For the most part, the people we have been meeting along the way (both locals and fellow travelers) have been great. In Turkey, people were very willing to help us out with directions whenever we looked lost. They don’t do maps in Turkey, but it was no problem stopping every few blocks to find someone to point us in the right direction. We have also been surprised about how many other Americans we’ve met. We had heard from other people not to expect to see many other Americans but we’ve actually met quite a few, some, who like us, are traveling for an extended period of time.

Matt November 10, 2009 at 9:58 AM

Quick update on the bamboo front – we killed it, then brought it back to life.

Reply

Amy November 11, 2009 at 3:17 AM

Resurrection of the dead is quite an impressive feat. Perhaps we should commission a fresco entitled “Resurrection of the Bamboo” for one of the many churches we’ve visited.

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