Just as we were leaving the States last October, Season 15 of the Amazing Race was starting. After watching an episode in the States and getting hooked we subscribed to the season pass on iTunes. In episode 4 our favorite characters Zev and Justin (who pronounced Phnom Penh as Sean Penn) were eliminated after coming in first because they lost their passports during the race around the city. The surprising fact it that 100 meters from Wat Phnom – the final Pit Stop – is the U.S. Embassy. I guess getting a replacement passport was not within the Amazing Race rules.
In an effort to have our own Amazing Race-like experience as we toured Phnom Penh we got pictures at 4 of the 5 locations in the episode. It made for a great way to see the city. And sneaking into the Raffles Royal Hotel with rooms going for well over $500 was interesting as we had been out in the 100 degree heat all day and were quite the sweaty looking backpackers. Check out the pictures below.
Keith at the Foreign Correspondents Club
The Le Royal Raffles Hotel
Russian Market - location of the "Wrap" Detour, no Globetrotter when we were there
Wat Phnom - The episode's Pit Stop only 100 meters from the U.S. Embassy
To see the rest of our pictures from Cambodia click here.
As we travel we are always on the lookout for ways to uncover unique and novel efforts towards environmental sustainability. We have found success to date by networking with contacts from home and searching out local efforts such as Green Building Codes in Singapore. And while we had arranged a meeting with a local company, SME Renewable Energy, Ltd., before we arrived, we quickly found out that Cambodia is a tremendous place to find great people working hard to create a more sustainable tomorrow. This post is a thank you to three people, Diana, Seyha and Peter, who took the time and energy to meet with us and explain what they are doing, why it is important, and how it makes a difference in the lives of average Cambodians. We will be exploring the three different approaches used by each of them in a forthcoming case study.
I wandered into the Bloom store in Siem Reap because when I saw the “Reduce, Reuse, Recycle” sign on the door I had to find out what this was all about. It turns out that Bloom is a social enterprise that was established in September 2006 with the intention of providing fair-paying jobs to disadvantaged Cambodian women. Bloom does this by reusing rice and fish feed bags and turning them into stylish bags and accessories. Diana agreed to meet us for lunch the following day and from that terrific first conversation discussing the challenges and lessons of starting a social enterprise in Cambodia, she then spent the next three days showing us around Phnom Penh and introducing us to other fascinating expats.
We were put in contact with Seyha through contacts (made initially by my mom, thanks!) at E+Co, a US-based investment company focusing on clean energy in the developing world. Seyha met with us for 90 minutes and provided a fantastic overview of the development of the energy infrastructure (or lack thereof) within Cambodia since the civil war ended in 1997. He recounted for us stories of creating the first National Rice Millers Association, partnering with huge NGOs and how SME RE found success through an initial grant by Canadians to prove the efficacy of gasifier technology.
As we were walking out of the Foreign Correspondent’s Club one afternoon we saw a poster looking for volunteers willing to invest $15 to provide clean water to poor Cambodian villagers. After an email to Peter we had made the arrangements to deliver three ceramic water filters to villagers on Silk Island near Phnom Penh. The water filters, which look just like ceramic planters pots, are simple to maintain and allow the recipient family to avoid spending money on charcoal to boil their water until it is safe to drink. This saves them time and money that can then be spent on other necessities such as school fees.
One final thought: the expat community in Cambodia was amazing. Everyone we met was very generous with their time and willing to share personal stories with a frankness and openness we had not heard elsewhere. Amy and I had not previously thought to reach out to the expat community, but we will be sure to continue to do so in the remaining 6 months of our travels. Expats are often willing to share recommendations for great restaurants off the tourist path, introduce you to businesses and people with shared interests, and are a great resource for travelers interested in how businesses operate on a local level. The entrepreneurial can-do spirit we found in the expat community in Cambodia is very different from the Western Corporate cultural Amy and I are familiar with, and I for one found it exhilarating.
Getting up at 5am for sunrise at Angkor Wat is an absolute must do while in Siem Reap. If you are lucky enough to get a morning with just the right amount of cloud cover the sky transforms at 5:45 from inky navy blue to crimson, pink and red as the sun begins to climb over the horizon.
You first approach the central temple area down a long walkway just as the sky is beginning to lighten.
Standing in front of the lotus pond the sawtooth outline of the five main towers are silhouetted against a brightening pink and blue morning sky.
Later in the afternoon with the the sun high in the sky you can then clearly see the restoration scaffolding and green covers that take away from the majesty.
The Details:
The most popular place to watch the sunrise at Angkor Wat is in front of the left side lotus pond. Just follow all of the other people, there will be hundreds.
Regarding the crowds, if you thought that sunrise would be a peaceful, maybe even a spiritual experience, you will be sadly disappointed. Depending on the day you will likely be jockeying for photos with hundreds of other tourists. The short video below gives you a sense of the background chatter and noise you can expect. Just know what you can expect and enjoy it despite the crowds.
Finally, our best day touring Angkor Wat was the day we decided to split our touring into two segments. We went out at 5am for sunrise and toured temples until about 10:30am. We then retreated from the heat to our hotel for a nap and lunch. Our tuk-tuk came back to get us at 3:00pm and we stayed out until sunset, which was about 6:15. The heat during the day is oppressive at around 100 degrees, so a 3-4 hour mid-day break and nap is a great way to split up the day. We highly recommend it.
